Any recomendations for covers to fit a special. Possibly chummy size would do. Ideally for occasional outdoor use.

I have an assortment of aluminium brake shoes, 1A4075 1 1/4 inch wide; common fitment for late RP and MkI Ruby. Distance between pivot ant cam face centre 5 inches.
I also have 8 X 1A4099 1 1/4 inch wide; distace between pivot and cam face centre 5 1/2. What do the A14099 shoes fit? I seem to vaguely remember "offset pivots", but cannot remember application. 
Thanks, in advance for any advice.
JW

Hi Everyone,

Has anybody got any ideas on whereabouts of:

AJG 309 Austin Seven Ruby circa 1937?

Kind regards

Philip Worman

I've just received a buddy request from  "Organ tuner"  I would have replied but his/her reply section is disabled. Is this some sort of scam?
I've never had one of these before and wonder if it's because I really am Billy no mates and no one want to be my 
friend ?  

I have some 'cobalt' badged drills which dont seem to get through a 2mm-ish stainless plate (an old wide spreader blade) I was trying to make into a coverplate for the fuel pump aperture.
I did research last night and notice that cobalt comes in 5% (M35?) and 8% (M42) but that also Cobalt introduces instability - i.e. more chance of snapping.
Any advice on drills generally? I'd like to buy a set which work on everything, but now confused. I'm also confused by the badging of drills. Do people use imperial which seem to be pricier, or just work with metric sets which rise in 0.1 intervals, and convert?

Need to buy nose cone gasket for my Ruby.
But can’t see one listed on the seven workshop.
Anyone know a supplier ?
Regards
            Tim

Hi,

Another quick question....

We've spotted that the casting that the dynamo mounts on has a crack - it's in the long bolt mount in the one on the right:
   

Closeup:
   

as you'll see from the first pic, luckily I have a perfect spare....
unluckily, there's a reason for the crack - clearly the thread in the crankcase stripped at some point and someone tapped this out to the next size up and drilled the casting, weakening it, and it then cracked.

I reckon I've got a few options....

1/ put the old one back on, with crack as it is (?repair with epoxy or something better?), and don't tighten too much
2/ fit some sort of insert (?HeliCoil) in to the existing tapped hole in the crankcase to take it back down from 1/4W to 3/16W
3/ source a long stud with 1/4W end and nice long 3/16W body (no, I don't have a lathe so can't make one)

It had been working OK for ages with the crack before, and it seems to me that the bolts at the other end take most of the force, given that the dynamo hangs out so far..... but if a HeliCoil would wind in to the existing hole then maybe that's the way to go. An issue there is that I've got the block attached to the crankcase and I really don't want to take it off again...

Thoughts / opinions?

Hello again chaps
Could anyone tell me the thread on the radius arm? I think that it needs a little tidy up with a dia, as the nut only go's on around one turn. Maybe a run through the nut with a tap while I'm at it .. Early arm..

Hi all,

Our engine assembly is finally progressing nicely.
The engine has the original 2 bearing splashfed crank, crack tested, ground and re-metalled. It has new pistons at +60 thou.
The inlets are slightly enlarged. I'm planning to use it with the standard side draught zenith, though I do have a pair SU carbs that I could use....
It's going in a special, but quite a period one. I was planning to use the orignal head, but I do happen to have a Supaloy head in good condition:
   
Is there any point in fitting the Supaloy? I'm not planning to use the car on Trials etc, at least not at the moment.....

Cheers,

James

Have managed to eliminate many oil leaks on Ruby but the one that currently remains and is being very persistent is one from the petrol pump. 
I had already purchased and fitted a kit including diaphragm etc and in the last month or two replaced the gasket between the pump and sump joint along with blue hylomer and am pretty happy the leak is not from this joint as there is no sign of any oil around the joint either from or under the pump and the sump is clean.
However the leak appears to emanate from around the pin that the cam lever oscillates about runs down and drips down from that area. It appears to be quite significant in that a run of just 15 to 20 miles is enough to form a decent pool of oil at the bottom of the sump.
As always any comments and advice much appreciated
Cheers Denis S